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  • Member Blogs
  • Printing Game Boards to Fabric -- Results With a Few Snapshots

Printing Game Boards to Fabric -- Results With a Few Snapshots

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There Will Be Games

 

I sent a pdf file that contained all of the game maps for Valor & Victory to these guys -- http://www.fabricondemand.com and these are the results.

This photo is blue as hell for some reason so don't use the color to judge the quality of the print.  This is one yard of fabric, with a 60 inch print width.  All the maps were submitted as a combined single image and this chunk of cloth is almost corner to corner of the printable region for a one-yard purchase.  $22 delivered.

 

The true colors are brighter than these flash photos show, but I wanted to put a few shots in to show the level of detail.  This is on a tight cotton weave.

 

A very tight close-up.  Valor & Victory maps have big 1.25" hexes and the sizing is dead-on-balls accurate (a technical term).  The smallest print on the maps is for the hex identifiers -- J5 in the center hex above and it is very readable.  The thread grain puts just a hint of ripple in the edges of the pond in the image above.

It's not as clear as paper, but the result is excellent and short of a cigarette lighter likely indestructible.  Spills or smears can be washed away and the ability to fold these critters up and drop them in a suitcase could be pretty doggone useful.  I can imagine an ASL player printing to both sides and having ALL of their maps on a ten foot roll that they could stuff in their suitcase.

S.

 

There Will Be Games
John "Sagrilarus" Edwards (He/Him)
Associate Writer

John aka Sagrilarus is an old boardgame player. He has no qualifications to write on the subject, and will issue a stern denial of his articles' contents on short notice if pressed.

Articles by Sagrilarus

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Gronak's Avatar
Gronak replied the topic: #215091 16 Nov 2015 01:10
What kind of fabric did you choose to get the best resolution?
ubarose's Avatar
ubarose replied the topic: #215093 16 Nov 2015 02:15
How are you going to finish the edges when you cut them out? Overlock? Hem?
Gary Sax's Avatar
Gary Sax replied the topic: #215094 16 Nov 2015 06:48
I'm trying to decide how this would be to play on, it would never have occurred to me. I guess the fabric would have more friction, prevent counter stack topples?
JEM's Avatar
JEM replied the topic: #215095 16 Nov 2015 07:31
You can always put the cloth map under plexi. Maybe not when travelling.
SuperflyPete's Avatar
SuperflyPete replied the topic: #215102 16 Nov 2015 09:06
Just ordered this in "Cotton Duck 7"

Firestorm Armada just got spacier.


1.53MB file. Can email if anyone wants it.
Josh Look's Avatar
Josh Look replied the topic: #215105 16 Nov 2015 09:15

SuperflyTNT wrote: Just ordered this in "Cotton Duck 7"

Firestorm Armada just got spacier.



1.53MB file. Can email if anyone wants it.


Hell yeah, PM sent.
Sagrilarus's Avatar
Sagrilarus replied the topic: #215112 16 Nov 2015 10:31
It's back!

I went with 6 ounce cotton for the maps you're looking at in the photos above, and it's more or less the equivalent of jeans that have been washed once or twice. It's stiff but not so much that you can't lay it flat.

I've only cut a couple of maps free from the others. One my wife used Fuseable Interface to roll the edges, but the others I've just run with because the weave is holding together. I'll admit I don't fuss with it so that it won't become an issue so quickly. There's enough gap between the map and the edge so that the first few threads don't make a difference.
SuperflyPete's Avatar
SuperflyPete replied the topic: #215118 16 Nov 2015 11:24
I'd probably cut it 0.5-1" larger in each direction, then fold the edges use hot-melt glue to seal in the hem. Nothing is better, IMO, for sealing fabrics from fraying, than hot-melt glue.
ubarose's Avatar
ubarose replied the topic: #215135 16 Nov 2015 12:41
If you aren't going to overlock them, I would Fray Check the edges - Fray Check

Hot glue is lumpy.
SuperflyPete's Avatar
SuperflyPete replied the topic: #215137 16 Nov 2015 12:47
I've had good luck - I use the low-melt stuff and it's not very thixotropic, with a wax paper backer on the table. I press down on the glue/hem and it really penetrates very well. I have a couple of tablecloths I've done it with and it beats the shit out of sewing (I ~cannot~ figure out how to use my sewing machine)
jeb's Avatar
jeb replied the topic: #215139 16 Nov 2015 13:16

SuperflyTNT wrote: I've had good luck - I use the low-melt stuff and it's not very thixotropic, with a wax paper backer on the table. I press down on the glue/hem and it really penetrates very well. I have a couple of tablecloths I've done it with and it beats the shit out of sewing (I ~cannot~ figure out how to use my sewing machine)

Amen! Sewing is easy, getting the whole bobbin thing going requires a Nobel prize.

These maps look awesome. I am tempted to gin up a Twilight Struggle map.
SuperflyPete's Avatar
SuperflyPete replied the topic: #215141 16 Nov 2015 13:22
The mechanical parts I don't have a problem with. It's keeping a straight line with the threads, and stuff like that.
ubarose's Avatar
ubarose replied the topic: #215151 16 Nov 2015 15:03
Sewing machines are ergonomically designed to fit the average woman, so if you are guy sized it's really difficult to use them. Particularly if you have big man hands, or are taller than 5' 5". You can get around the height thing by raising up the surface the machine is on, but fitting your fingers and hands where they need to be to steer can still be challenging. Guys do better with industrials or quilting machines that have a larger throat space and an extended bed.