MDF Buildings?

barrowdown wrote: I have a Comanche starter in the box too (the one with buildings). It looks to be a really solid mix of stuff.

Edit: it also gives me some simpler structures to build and paint before the more elaborate stuff.

Let me know if 40mm bases fit on those narrow walkways. I'm ready to pull the trigger on the walkway bundle, but may need to craft my own bundle with wide walkways if 40mm bases don't fit.

I'll check this evening, but I highly doubt it. The listed dimensions are 1.5 inches (38.1mm) for width. Make sure you go with the towers with the wide openings if you are going with the wider walkways. The shipping containers have a wider walkway to connect them together, but I don't think it will interface with the Comanche connections.

There was a 10% off code tossed in the box if you want to place an order.

You could probably place a 40mm at the intersections of the walkways and they would certainly fit on top if you left the railing as an unglued join, but they are not going to fit between the two railings when they are in place.

You are probably capped at a 32mm base for easy use.

As far as building the stuff goes, I am now on my second set of support structures. The first one was Neon Genesis (6 tall buildings and 6 cubic crates) and now doing one for Moto.Tronica (6 short buildings and 6 containers). So far, everything slots together really nice and has a nice heft and strength.

Thanks for checking on that, barrowdown. I guess I'll skip the walkway starter since I really don't want those stairs. Those ramps and half level intersections look more interesting.

That said, I think I need to buy the short narrow walkways to get the ladders. Do any ladders come with any other kits? Its really hard to tell going by the website. It seems to iimply that the octagon platform comes.with one, but not explicitly.

What are neon genesis and moto.tronica? Building kits?

Double post

Ladders come with the short walkway and the octagon platform. They also have standalone ladders for a different line ( LINK ), but I am not sure how well those will mesh with Comanche. I assume they will be roughly right.

The Neon Lotus/Moto.Tronica (not my terribly incorrect Neon Genesis) are part of Infinity's cardboard terrain lines that they pack in with the starters and one of the army sets:

Neon Lotus:


Moto.Tronica (which also comes in two other skins)::


They are cardboard terrain. Warsenal makes an inexpensive set of MDF boxes for each set that makes the terrain more substantial. Since I have the two starters, it was an easy way to get a decent amount of buildings ready to play.

Cardboard is actually pretty bad ass, if you fill them from below with non-expanding foam (like window/door seal foam) to make them more hardy.

barrowdown wrote: Ladders come with the short walkway and the octagon platform. They also have standalone ladders for a different line ( LINK ), but I am not sure how well those will mesh with Comanche. I assume they will be roughly right.

The Neon Lotus/Moto.Tronica (not my terribly incorrect Neon Genesis) are part of Infinity's cardboard terrain lines that they pack in with the starters and one of the army sets:

Neon Lotus:

Moto.Tronica (which also comes in two other skins)::

They are cardboard terrain. Warsenal makes an inexpensive set of MDF boxes for each set that makes the terrain more substantial. Since I have the two starters, it was an easy way to get a decent amount of buildings ready to play.

And the cardboard is really cheap. I'm going to get two of the commanche sets for when I travel to Austin and will play some Necromunda.

More Warsenal terrain with a figure for scale

Comanche Scatter Terrain:


Lots of odds and ends to add interest to the field. This was my first experience of trying to glue acrylic to wood. I was trying to do everything with PVA, but the plastic does not adhere well to the wood on a smooth join so I had to use some CA on those parts. All went together pretty smooth with only the satellite dish and the wheels requiring careful alignment.

Communications Array:


Super fast to build (10 minutes). I have not glued the acrylic screens in yet as it still needs paint.

Hey Barrowdown, here's a good glue tip that is very recent.

I was looking for a solid way to glue my Monpoc stuff on acrylic bases for my Destroy all Monsters retheme, and tried gorilla glue clear. The product only came out in January, so it's hard to find reviews for. They're running commercials on YouTube where a black couple are trying to figure out how to glue their glass table top onto a metal table frame. The commercials don't exaggerate how effective the glue is.



The stuff is truly amazing, unlike other gorilla glues that are difficult to get right since they expand. This is activated by water, so follow directions when using. the only prep i had to do was make sure it was clean, took a moist paper towel and wiped each surface to ensure they were wet, applied glue, stuck them together. they recommend clamping, but i found it to be unecesary for light objects. Smooth objects to smooth objects, solid as all hell.

The joins are solid and transparent. So even if you're messy it still looks great. It is what I am definitely planning on using for my mdf stuff that has acrylic bits.

That glue is insanely strong provided one surface is porous. The shear strength drops considerably when both sides aren't but it's still one of the baddest glues ever invented.

Protip: Did you know that CA glues are also water-cured? If you want to have a crazy strong pin or have two pieces of plastic joined with a stronger bond, immediately hold the joined part over a faucet while steaming hot water runs. The steam cures that shit stone-hard.

The downside is that depending on the glue, it may turn hazy or white. Protip 2: Satellite City CAs are almost as strong as epoxy but easy to apply

Forgot to mention: if you want some of the most gangster ass basing material for cheap:

m.homedepot.com/p/Plaskolite-23-75-in-x-...l-1A25001A/100542281

My buddy works for a ceiling contractor and I get this shit (and better shit) all the time from him. They make all kinds of thicknesses and if you run an orbital sander over it you can use PVA and sand/flock/whatever to create bad ass scenery with a super rigid base for cheap. I always place the part on top, draw a line around the outline, then drill pinholes just inside of that line so when the epoxy is laid over it, it adds mechanical strength to the bond between the substrate and the part via an "epoxy pin". Just remember to do it on wax paper or your table will end up with epoxy on it...again.

When painting an MDF piece of terrain, what do you prime it with? Any other tips for painting?

Who makes those cardboard maps? I wish they came with squares or hexes on them. That would be ridiculous.

charlest wrote: When painting an MDF piece of terrain, what do you prime it with? Any other tips for painting?

I use Krylon or Painter's Touch 2x Primer, myself, when it comes to priming. When it comes to painting, it's exclusively Apple Barrel because using top shelf paint is both ridiculously time consuming and fuck all expensive.

Also, Model Mates. The Rust Effect and Oil Effect can't be beat. Sadly, they went under, so BUY IT UP. It was literally the best line of specialty paints and pigments ever. I think they sold the rights to Dirty Down dirtydown.co.uk/ but that's kind of me Inspecor Clouseau'ing.

For the uninitiated www.beastsofwar.com/modelmates/modelmate...ll-weathering-ideas/