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What Minis Are You Painting?
- Michael Barnes
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That Otyugh, I think, is heavily washed. I just painted a Daemon Prince (I had NO intention to do so when I did, I just kind of sat down and did it) and I did a similar effect on those tentacles but with Thousand Sons Blue and Celestra Gray heavily washed with Druchii Violet. See how the purple and green have a translucent quality? I think what they did there was to put down something like Rakarth Flesh and then use the washes to build up to color. I did this on my Daemon Prince, and it looks pretty good. It's also pretty easy to blend color with washes, since they are so translucent. So you can sort of build up a transition between colors. Then, when you have it how you like it, you can drybrush something like Flayed One Flesh over BOTH colors to blend them together visual. The browns and reds are likely just washes in those colors. The brown splotches are probably just a a medium brown sponged on. The tongue is totally washed- I am about 100% sure that it was a light color and then washed like crazy with purple.
The thing that is nice about wash painting is that it is of course WAY thinner than acrylic paint. So it is easier to bring out detail, and it sort of has some built-in shading so that raised portions are lighter than the recesses. The downside is that it takes some babysitting, and it is easy to mess up if you splodge it on too much. But it is totally viable, and really quite quick to do. I think if I do any D&D minis, I will definitely make use of painting with washes on them.
The yellow/brown parts on the Drake are a combination of layering and drybrushing. On the spines, that is simply drawing a line on the ridge. The rest looks like standard drybrushing. It's a smart color choice though, that adds detail and definition.
I had sort of an epiphany last night. I wanted to get back to doing some Primaris marines since I have a ton of them that are unpainted. I followed the GW method of painting the first 10, and it took forever. Edge highlighting those guys is a pain in the ass. So I decided to massively simplify them. I primed Macragge Blue, washed with Nuln Oil, then drybrushed Calgar Blue fairly heavily, and then Chronus Blue lightly. Armor done! I decided to fly in the face of GW rules and I didn't use base paints for anything, really. I used layer paints one shade up from base. I went for good, solid coats on everything, and I did gray instead of black for the black parts. Then I washed the pouches and belts (which I did in Skrag Brown) with Agrax and the metals and grays with Nuln. Ulthuan gray for the skull masks, Retributor Armor for the gold trim, and my above eye glazing technique. I REALLY wanted to avoid having to edge highlight the Bolt Rifles (which I always screw up) so I washed the black parts of them with more Nuln. In about 20 minutes, I had a virtually complete Primaris Reiver at what I think is a high tabletop standard. So I am doing ALL my Space Marines with this method. Sorry Duncan Rhodes!
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I'm gonna take a bunch of photos to motivate me hitting the hobby desk again.
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- ChristopherMD
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- GorillaGrody
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- Michael Barnes
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My “black recipe” is really heavily shaded dark gray. But I think it “reads as black” without having to sit there and edge highlight all those little recesses on a Bolter.
Here’s that Daemon Prince-
www.flickr.com/photos/54116966@N03/shares/k6rC83
A little sloppy because I’m lazy and impatient, but I think it’s high tabletop quality...and it took me maybe 90 minutes not counting wash/glaze drying?
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- Space Ghost
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- fastkmeans
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also looking forward to seeing the marines
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- Michael Barnes
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I don’t really care to do elaborate bases. These are playing pieces, not showpieces.
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Like it's a hard thing, I don't have any suggestions, but...
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- Michael Barnes
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- Michael Barnes
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www.flickr.com/photos/54116966@N03/shares/Zi7wi4
Probably need to do a little more touch up work, but I think these turned out OK for comparatively minimal effort. I did go one drybrush highligh round on everything, which I didn’t plan on doing, but it brightened everything up and they needed that.
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- hotseatgames
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- GorillaGrody
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Michael Barnes wrote: Ok, SM pics.
www.flickr.com/photos/54116966@N03/shares/Zi7wi4
Probably need to do a little more touch up work, but I think these turned out OK for comparatively minimal effort. I did go one drybrush highligh round on everything, which I didn’t plan on doing, but it brightened everything up and they needed that.
I'm absolutely trying this next time. 50 percent of the pleasure I get from painting is discovering shortcuts that work (and 75 per cent of the pain is trying shortcuts that fail).
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- Michael Barnes
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1) Prime Macragge Blue
2) Wash Nuln Oil (Or Drakenhof Nightshade)
3) Overbrush Macragge Blue
4) Drybrush Calgar Blue (use a large, flat brush)
5) LIGHT drybrush Chronus Blue
6) Use Macragge Blue to go over the really patchy looking spots on the flat parts of the armor.
You could modify this for any color, really. The key thing is prime the main color and wash first.
Then just do all your colors a shade lighter than you are “supposed” to and wash it all with Nuln Oil or Agrax depending if you want clean or dirty shades- just totally ignore the GW method. Save that for your characters/showpiece models. You can do one more shade up as a drybrush highlight.
NO edge highlighting!
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